Is It Real Silk? What the Labels and the Fabric Tell You
Real silk is confirmed by the composition tag, 100% silk (soie, seta, Seide), and by the fabric: a soft, dry hand and a natural sheen. Of the 38 silk pieces we have handled (21 in stock today), we have read the composition tag on 23: 12 say 100% silk and 11 give a blend, most often with cotton (5), viscose (3), polyester (2).
Updated · built from the labels on our own pieces and rebuilt as pieces come and go.
What the label should say
The composition tag should read “100% silk” (soie, seta, Seide), with any trim or lining listed separately. That is what we go by, and it is how the piece is described on its product page: the material in the title is the material on the tag, or “faux” when the tag lists a synthetic.
On the 23 silk tags we have read, the percentage of the main fibre was 100% (12), 70% (2), 30% (4), 18% (2), 5% (2), 1% (1). The blends were mostly with cotton (5), viscose (3), polyester (2), polyamide (2), cashmere (1).
Country on the label (18 labels with one): China (12), Italy (4), Hong Kong (1), India (1). The country is one detail among several, not proof.
Labels we have handled most: Coast (3), Louis Feraud (2), Hobbs (2), Pure Collection (2), Gianfranco Ferré (2), Balmain (2), Escada (1), Versace (1).
What the care labels say (6 labels with care instructions): do not bleach (5), dry flat (2), iron low (2), do not wash (1), gentle dry clean (1), hand wash (1). Every care label we have read, by material: how to wash vintage clothes, what the labels say.
What to check on the piece
- The composition tag. 100% silk, soie, seta or Seide, with any trim or lining listed separately.
- The fabric. A soft, dry hand and a natural sheen. Polyester tends to look glassier and feel slippery.
- Shell and trim. Good labels list the main fabric and the trims or lining separately; read both.
- The brand label and the size system. The label should match the brand’s labels from the piece’s era, and the sizes printed on it should make sense together.
These are the checks from our guide to every material we sell: How we check every piece. No single detail proves it; a piece is real when the label, the tag and the material agree.
Labels from our own pieces
Our photos of our pieces, the same ones you see in the product galleries, so you can check what we checked.
Versace
Composition tag: 100% silk · made in Italy · care: do not wash, gentle dry clean, do not bleach.
See this piece →
In stock now
- Laurel by Escada womens navy silk wool satin fitted button bla… · UK 10 · £67.5
- Louis Féraud 90s black velvet mini fishtail dress UK 8-10 silk… · UK 10 · £67.5 · 57% viscose, 31% cotton, 12% modal
- Versus Versace’11 black cashmere wool velvet ribbed fitted min… · UK 10 · £67.5 · 100% silk
- Diane von Furstenberg 100% Silk Tiger Wrap Bodycon Mini Dress… · UK 6 · £57 · 100% silk
- Repeat Womens Cashmere Silk V-Neck Slouchy Jumper Blush Pink U… · UK 10 · £45 · 70% cashmere, 30% silk
- Moda Ibiza Silk Handkerchief Maxi Dress Ruffle open back S-XL… · S · £44 · 70% silk, 30% polyester
- Needle womens black 100% cashmere silk draped relaxed scoop ne… · UK 10 · £40.5 · 100% cashmere
- Hobbs Womens Silk Velvet Wide Leg High Rise 12”Trousers W35 L2… · UK 12 · £30.5 · 82% viscose, 18% silk
- Pure Collection 100% silk geometric wrap dress blue white v-ne… · UK 16 · £28.5 · 100% silk
- Gianfranco Ferré womens 100% silk draped top IT 40 UK 8-10 rus… · UK 10 · £28
- Karen Millen 100% silk off shoulder asymmetrical floral ruffle… · S · £26.5 · 100% silk
- Coast Womens 100% Silk Purple Strapless Prom Cocktail Mini Dre… · S · £26.5 · 100% silk
Questions about silk
What does the label say on real silk?
“100% silk”, in English or in the label’s own language (soie, seta, Seide), with any trim or lining listed separately. Of the 23 silk pieces whose composition tag we have read, 12 say 100% silk and 11 give a blend (cotton (5), viscose (3), polyester (2), polyamide (2)).
Is silk mixed with cotton or viscose still silk?
It is a silk blend, and the tag should say the percentages. 11 of the 38 silk pieces we have handled are blends; we list the blend as the label gives it, never as “silk” alone.
Where was the silk you handled made?
Of the 18 silk labels with a country on them: China (12), Italy (4), Hong Kong (1), India (1). A country of manufacture is one detail among several, not proof.
Which silk labels have you handled most?
38 pieces so far (21 in stock today), among them Coast (3), Louis Feraud (2), Hobbs (2), Pure Collection (2), Gianfranco Ferré (2), Balmain (2), Escada (1), Versace (1).
What do silk care labels say?
On the 6 silk labels with care instructions we have read, the commonest are do not bleach (5), dry flat (2), iron low (2), do not wash (1), gentle dry clean (1). What every care label we have read says, by material, is on our care-label page.