How to Wash Vintage Cashmere, Silk and Wool: What the Care Labels Say
Of the 31 cashmere care labels we have read, 9 say hand wash, 11 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 8 say dry clean only or do not wash. 20 say dry flat and 6 say do not tumble dry. Of the 18 wool care labels we have read, 1 says hand wash, 4 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 8 say dry clean only or do not wash. 2 say dry flat and 3 say do not tumble dry. Of the 4 silk care labels we have read, 1 allows a machine wash (a temperature is given), 1 says dry clean only or do not wash. 1 says dry flat.
Those are the care labels on our own pieces, read from the label photos: 154 labels so far, 73 of them on pieces in stock, sold pieces included. Nothing below is a rule of ours: the table counts what the labels say, and the right-hand column is the care line we already print on each piece. When they differ, the label on the piece wins. Labels read up to 25 October 2026.
What the labels say, by material
| Material | Labels read | Most common instructions | Our care line on the pieces |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cashmere | 31 (17 in stock) | dry flat 20 · wash inside out 9 · wash at 30° 8 · do not bleach 8 | Hand wash cold with a wool wash, press the water out in a towel and dry flat. Fold it rather than hang it. |
| Wool | 18 (5 in stock) | do not bleach 6 · dry clean only 6 · machine wash 4 · wash with similar colours 4 | Hand wash cold or on the wool cycle, dry flat and fold rather than hang. No tumble dryer. |
| Silk | 4 (4 in stock) | do not bleach 3 · machine wash 1 · do not wash 1 · gentle dry clean 1 | Hand wash cold and briefly with a mild detergent, or dry clean. Don’t soak or wring; dry flat in the shade; iron low on the reverse. |
| Cotton and denim (28 denim) | 48 (23 in stock) | machine wash 15 · do not bleach 14 · wash with similar colours 14 · iron low 13 | Wash at 30–40° with similar colours, hang to dry and iron medium. |
| Linen | 2 (1 in stock) | wash at 30° 2 · iron low 1 · dry flat 1 · wash inside out 1 | Wash at 30–40°, hang to dry and iron while still slightly damp. |
| Viscose and rayon | 15 (6 in stock) | iron low 5 · wash with similar colours 5 · dry clean only 3 · do not bleach 3 | Hand wash cold or a 30° delicate cycle; don’t wring; dry flat or on a hanger. It can shrink in heat. |
| Synthetics | 21 (10 in stock) | wash with similar colours 8 · do not bleach 7 · dry flat 6 · wash inside out 6 | Wash at 30°, hang to dry and use a cool iron. |
| Leather, suede and sheepskin | 7 (4 in stock) | dry clean only 2 · do not bleach 2 · specialist leather clean 2 · wash at 30° 1 | Wipe with a damp cloth, condition now and then and hang on a wide hanger. Specialist leather cleaner only, never the machine. |
| Other or not stated | 8 (3 in stock) | machine wash 3 · do not bleach 3 · iron low 2 · machine wash 30° 1 | as the label says |
A label can carry several lines (wash, dry, iron, bleach), so the counts add up to more than the number of labels. Fibre is the main one on the composition tag; a cashmere-silk jumper counts as cashmere.
How to wash vintage cashmere: what 31 labels say
Of the 31 cashmere care labels we have read, 9 say hand wash, 11 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 8 say dry clean only or do not wash. 20 say dry flat and 6 say do not tumble dry.
- Dry flat (20 labels): lay it out flat to dry rather than hanging it, so the weight of the water does not stretch it
- Wash inside out (9 labels): turn it inside out to protect the surface, the print or the embroidery
- Wash at 30° (8 labels): machine wash at 30 °C, the cool cycle
- Do not bleach (8 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
On our cashmere pieces we print: Hand wash cold with a wool wash, press the water out in a towel and dry flat. Fold it rather than hang it.
Wool
Of the 18 wool care labels we have read, 1 says hand wash, 4 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 8 say dry clean only or do not wash. 2 say dry flat and 3 say do not tumble dry.
- Do not bleach (6 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
- Dry clean only (6 labels): professional dry cleaning only, no water at home
- Machine wash (4 labels): machine washable on a normal cycle unless a temperature is given
- Wash with similar colours (4 labels): the dye can run in the wash, so keep it with like colours
On our wool pieces we print: Hand wash cold or on the wool cycle, dry flat and fold rather than hang. No tumble dryer. On tailored wool: Dry clean. Brush after wearing, hang on a shaped hanger and steam out creases.
Silk
Of the 4 silk care labels we have read, 1 allows a machine wash (a temperature is given), 1 says dry clean only or do not wash. 1 says dry flat. A small sample so far; the counts grow as pieces come in.
- Do not bleach (3 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
- Machine wash (1 label): machine washable on a normal cycle unless a temperature is given
- Do not wash (1 label): no water at all; dry clean or specialist clean
- Gentle dry clean (1 label): dry clean on a gentle cycle
On our silk pieces we print: Hand wash cold and briefly with a mild detergent, or dry clean. Don’t soak or wring; dry flat in the shade; iron low on the reverse.
Cotton and denim
Of the 48 cotton and denim care labels we have read, 6 say hand wash, 20 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given). 2 say dry flat and 6 say do not tumble dry.
- Machine wash (15 labels): machine washable on a normal cycle unless a temperature is given
- Do not bleach (14 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
- Wash with similar colours (14 labels): the dye can run in the wash, so keep it with like colours
- Iron low (13 labels): cool iron only, the one-dot setting
On our cotton and denim pieces we print: Wash at 30–40° with similar colours, hang to dry and iron medium. On jeans: Wash at 30° inside out with similar colours and hang to dry. Skip the tumble dryer to keep the stretch and the fit.
Viscose and rayon
Of the 15 viscose and rayon care labels we have read, 2 say hand wash, 6 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 3 say dry clean only or do not wash. 3 say dry flat and 2 say do not tumble dry.
- Iron low (5 labels): cool iron only, the one-dot setting
- Wash with similar colours (5 labels): the dye can run in the wash, so keep it with like colours
- Dry clean only (3 labels): professional dry cleaning only, no water at home
- Do not bleach (3 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
On our viscose and rayon pieces we print: Hand wash cold or a 30° delicate cycle; don’t wring; dry flat or on a hanger. It can shrink in heat.
Synthetics
Of the 21 synthetics care labels we have read, 5 say hand wash, 7 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given), 4 say dry clean only or do not wash. 6 say dry flat and 3 say do not tumble dry.
- Wash with similar colours (8 labels): the dye can run in the wash, so keep it with like colours
- Do not bleach (7 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
- Dry flat (6 labels): lay it out flat to dry rather than hanging it, so the weight of the water does not stretch it
- Wash inside out (6 labels): turn it inside out to protect the surface, the print or the embroidery
On our synthetics pieces we print: Wash at 30°, hang to dry and use a cool iron.
Linen
Of the 2 linen care labels we have read, 2 allow a machine wash (a temperature is given). 1 says dry flat. A small sample so far; the counts grow as pieces come in.
- Wash at 30° (2 labels): machine wash at 30 °C, the cool cycle
- Iron low (1 label): cool iron only, the one-dot setting
- Dry flat (1 label): lay it out flat to dry rather than hanging it, so the weight of the water does not stretch it
- Wash inside out (1 label): turn it inside out to protect the surface, the print or the embroidery
On our linen pieces we print: Wash at 30–40°, hang to dry and iron while still slightly damp.
Leather, suede and sheepskin
Of the 7 leather, suede and sheepskin care labels we have read, 1 allows a machine wash (a temperature is given), 5 say dry clean only or do not wash.
- Dry clean only (2 labels): professional dry cleaning only, no water at home
- Do not bleach (2 labels): no chlorine or oxygen bleach; it strips colour and weakens the fibre
- Specialist leather clean (2 labels): leather specialist only
- Wash at 30° (1 label): machine wash at 30 °C, the cool cycle
On our leather, suede and sheepskin pieces we print: Wipe with a damp cloth, condition now and then and hang on a wide hanger. Specialist leather cleaner only, never the machine.
The labels themselves
A few of the care labels behind the numbers, photographed on the pieces. Each links to the listing, where the same line sits under the measurements.
John Lewis · Cashmere
wash at 40° · do not dry clean · do not tumble dry · do not bleach
Marithé+François Girbaud · Wool
do not wash · dry clean only · do not bleach · iron low
Versace · Silk
do not wash · gentle dry clean · do not bleach · dry flat
True Religion · Cotton
machine wash · tumble dry low · iron low · wash inside out
Wallis · Linen
wash at 30° · iron low · dry flat
Whistles · Viscose
dry clean only · do not wash · do not tumble dry · do not bleach
Acne Studios · Polyamide
do not dry clean · hand wash · do not tumble dry · do not bleach
Chantal Rosner · Faux shearling
wash at 30° · dry clean only
The House of Bruar · Cashmere
wash at 30° · do not tumble dry · do not bleach · dry flat
Emanuel Ungaro · Wool
do not wash · do not tumble dry · do not bleach · iron low
Questions about washing vintage clothes
Can I machine wash vintage cashmere?
Only when the label says so. On the 31 cashmere labels we have read, 9 say hand wash, 11 give a machine temperature (30° or 40°) and 8 say dry clean only; 20 say dry flat. On our cashmere pieces we print: Hand wash cold with a wool wash, press the water out in a towel and dry flat. Fold it rather than hang it. The label on the piece wins over any general rule.
Does "dry clean only" really mean it?
We treat it as it reads. 24 of the 154 labels we have read say dry clean only, most of them on cashmere (8), wool (6), synthetics (4). On tailored wool and lined pieces our own care line says: Dry clean. Brush after wearing, hang on a shaped hanger and steam out creases.
Why do so many labels say "wash with similar colours" or "wash inside out"?
Because the dye can run and the surface can rub. 37 labels say wash with similar colours and 34 say wash inside out; on cotton and denim alone the two lines appear 14 and 12 times (28 of the 48 cotton pieces are jeans or denim). Inside out keeps the surface, the print and the embroidery away from the drum; similar colours keeps a bleeding dye off lighter pieces.
How do I dry a jumper flat?
35 labels say dry flat, 22 of them on cashmere and wool. Flat means laid out on a towel, pushed back into shape, away from direct heat; hanging a wet knit stretches it under its own weight. On our wool knits we print: Hand wash cold or on the wool cycle, dry flat and fold rather than hang. No tumble dryer.
What does "do not bleach" mean on a vintage label?
It is the most common line on the labels we have read: 46 of 154. It means no chlorine and no oxygen bleach; both strip colour and weaken the fibre, and on an old piece they also lift the age marks unevenly.
Where do these numbers come from?
From the photographs of the labels on our own pieces, in stock and sold: 154 care labels read so far, 73 of them on pieces in stock. Each piece shows its own care line on its listing; this page adds them up and rebuilds itself when a piece is added, sold or re-read. Latest label read on 25 October 2026.
Updated 25 October 2026, from the label photos on our own listings; rebuilt as pieces come and go.