Silver

Silver Jeans Co. launched in 1991, out of Western Glove Works in Winnipeg, a family clothing manufacturer there since 1921. What comes through this shop is the 2000s: low-rise bootcuts and flares, cut-offs and bermudas, every one carrying contrast stitching and an embroidered S on the back pockets, and, as far as we have seen, a more forgiving fit than the LA labels of those years.

Right now that means five pieces, two shorts and three flares.

How the sizes run

Our three W26 pairs, a bootcut, a flare and the Suki Bermuda, all measured 13.5 inches across the waistband, 27 round, a UK 8 on our chart. The W27 Aiko Mid Boot came out at 14.5 inches across, 29 round, a UK 8 to 10. And the W31 cut-offs measured 18.5 inches across, 37 round, a UK 12 that will take a 14.

Every pair measures more round than its label says, 1 inch on the W26s, 2 on the W27, 6 on the W31. Front rises run 7.5 to 8.5 inches across all five. One pair labelled L33 measured 31 inches on the inside leg, so go by the inseam we list. Four have a little give; the Bermuda has none and fits as measured.

What to check on a second-hand pair

Start at the back pockets, since the stitching is the reason to buy one. On the pairs we have handled, wear shows there first: pulled threads in the embroidery, contrast stitching faded to a different shade from the seams. Check the rivets sit tight and the zip runs clean.

Then turn the pair inside out.

Stretch denim is lighter than rigid and the inner thighs and knees go first, so hold the legs to the light. Inside repairs are fine if they lie flat; we photograph ours, as on the Aiko. Western Glove Works moved jeans production from Winnipeg to Asia across the 2000s and finished in 2007, so the country on a care label of that age tells you little.

A flare hem drags under a heel, so fraying at the back is normal; what matters is whether it was shortened. The Aiko here has an altered hem and the listing says so.

How does Silver sizing work? By waist and inseam in inches, like most North American denim. Every W26 we measured came out a UK 8, with a front rise of 8 to 8.5 inches.

Are these the same as the new Silver jeans? Same brand, older cuts. The label still sells a spread of rises, so a size that works on a recent pair is no guide to these. More in our Y2K guide.

Between sizes? Put your own waist and hip into Will it fit? and it checks each Silver piece against them.

Free UK delivery on orders of £40 or more, £3.95 below that, and 14 days to change your mind. Return postage on a change of mind is yours; the rest sits on shipping and returns.

Labels and tags from Silver pieces that have passed through this table.